I recently got a call from an owner who had a problem with their 7 month old puppy. She said the dog could stay for 3 minutes while she was 30 feet away, but when she tried the behavior with the dog in another room, the dog failed. 

You've asked your dog to sit or down and she doesn't move. Why? What do you do next? I'll tell you what you don't do. 

Sometimes we are so eager to control our dog's excited behavior that we forget: Dogs need Joy, too. 

My partner and dear friend, Kari Bastyr of Wag & Train has a great response when clients tell her what they want their dogs to do. She says, "Lower your expectations". I think that's great advice. 

Most of my work with dogs involves changing behaviors that are unwanted or inappropriate in our world. My sister told me that she could never do this job because some of my work can be very disheartening. 

1. The first meeting ideally should be on neutral ground. Take the dogs for a walk together and let them walk side by side. This gives them a chance to get acquainted while they are doing something very natural to dogs, moving. Walking also keeps them busy and they won't be targeting each other.

2. Once inside your yard, with both dogs on leash, allow the more stable dog to stand stationary while you present the more temperamental dog along side giving them access to investigate each other's genitals. This is like the "handshake" in human culture.

3. Make the initial investigation short. Walk both dogs away after only a few seconds and well before anyone can react defensively or aggressively.

4. Continue to allow the dogs to meet each other in this way until they can sustain this meeting for at least a minute without any outbursts.

5. Remove all toys, food or water bowls from the yard so there won't be any resource guarding by either dog. Pick these up inside the house as well and for the first few days separate the dogs when feeding or giving them chew items.

6. Put a long light rope on each dog's collar and let them drag it around inside the yard when you first let them go it alone. The light line allows you to quickly access one or both dogs by stepping on the line and then picking it up without getting your hands anywhere near the dog's mouths in case of a "disagreement."

7. Allow them to move freely in the yard. If one of the dogs is an unwilling participant, hiding, running away, tail tucked, seeking a place to get away, interrupt immediately. Never force a dog to "deal with it on their own". You do not want either dog to learn that aggressive behavior is the best way to keep the other dog at a distance.

Don't miss Free Dog Park Safety Seminar
Thursday, September 18 7:00 pm
Philip S. Miller Public Library, Castle Rock
RSVP: 720-289-7498

Laura Brody, local Dog Behavior Specialist is presenting this
60 minute presentation with loads of important safety tips. Sponsored by Good Family Dog ----720-289-7498

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Many dog owners would like their dogs to be "Visitation Therapy Dogs". They see themselves visiting nursing homes, assisted living facilities and hospitals sharing the love and healing energy that dogs can offer.

How do you know if your dog will make a good "Visitation Dog"? What does a Visitation Dog need to learn? These are the questions that I receive often from clients and readers.

First the dog's temperament must be stable, calm and confident. Dogs who are timid, overly cautious, very submissive or sensitive to new environments would not make a good candidates. No matter what the circumstances, dogs who have a history of aggression including growling or biting would not be good candidates for Visitation Therapy.

Take your dog to an obedience class and tell the instructor that your goal is to pass the Canine Good Citizen Test. They should be able to help you accomplish this. It is not always necessary to go through an official certification program to be a visiting dog, but the dog must be trained for some specific situations. Good Family Dog offers a class on Visitation Therapy Dog Training.

Perception is everything!! It is not enough that your dog would love to have someone pet them. The way they conduct themselves as your partner will be the way they are judged. Any facility would be happy to have a dog who:

Reliably walks calmly on a loose leash without a choke chain or prong collar, all the way from your car through the parking lot and into the front doors of the facility.
Will appear calm and under your control at all times. This includes a dog who responds to voice commands given once.

"Defers" to you. The dog can not approach anyone or anything without being released to do so.
Knows "leave it". In other words a dog who is not seduced by things on the floors or tables. They must walk by that dirty kleenex or that cookie on the coffee table when you tell them to.
Will sit calmly and allow people to approach without losing control, lunging, jumping, pawing or demanding attention.

Will lay or sit quietly while being petted even by people who's hand control is not smooth.
Who can stay calm in an environment where people are talking loudly, making unusual sounds and using equipment (like walkers, canes and supplemental oxygen).

The "Other End of the Leash" is also very important.

Be prepared to be a good listener. Residents and patients will often share stories about their own dogs. They'll ask questions, sometimes the same question, several times. Be patient. The dog's handler/owner must be the dog's advocate. It is your responsibility to always be aware of what your dog is doing and feeling at all times.

You must be able to recognize signs of stress in your dog such as: